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====== Field Rotation ====== | ====== Field Rotation ====== | ||
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+ | Field rotation smears stars in long-exposure photos, thanks to the Earth' | ||
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+ | Note that field rotation is most pronounced when an object is near your meridian((An imaginary line you are on that extends from the North Pole to the South Pole)), as the object' | ||
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+ | To minimize field rotation you can use a couple of strategies. Short exposure times helps, but the best solution is to limit your data collection ((Astrophotography uses a telescope as a funnel to direct light into a camera sensor that detects photons, and converts their intensity into a number, which is stored as data for later processing)) to times when your target isn’t close to the meridian. | ||
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+ | Visibility plots can help you predict how an object' | ||
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+ | So plan your sessions for when the target isn't near the meridian and is closer to the horizon where field rotation is less severe. But keep in mind that the atmosphere is very distorted near the horizon, so don’t go too low. | ||
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+ | By the way, many post-processing software packages can help correct field rotation, but it's not always a perfect solution. Just sayin’. | ||
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+ | A bit off topic, but if you get tired of the field rotation issue you can buy an equatorial mount, telescope, camera, guide scope and camera, ASIair, filter holder, and filters. The cost will be 4x - 6x what you paid for the Seestar. | ||
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+ | If that’s out of the question, you can buy a good Dobsonian for about the price of the Seestar. But all it will do is sit there just taking up a lot of space unless you learn how to find things in the night sky. And even then it won’t let you see really dim objects like the Seestar’s sensitive camera captures. | ||
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+ | Like cameras, the best telescope to own is the one you use a lot. Seestar gets my vote. | ||