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telescope_system [2024/06/24 10:11] – tailspintelescope_system [2024/08/19 08:05] (current) – tailspin
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 ====== Telescope System ====== ====== Telescope System ======
  
-(Images needed) (hyperlinks needed) 
  
 {{ :triplet.jpg?nolink&200|}}Your Seestar is a unique instrument. **On the outside, only the outermost lens, an on/off button, four battery-level lights, and a USB-C port are visible. And that’s all you really need to know about the hardware**, so you can skip the rest. But if you’re interested in the details keep reading. {{ :triplet.jpg?nolink&200|}}Your Seestar is a unique instrument. **On the outside, only the outermost lens, an on/off button, four battery-level lights, and a USB-C port are visible. And that’s all you really need to know about the hardware**, so you can skip the rest. But if you’re interested in the details keep reading.
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 There’s also a motor that will automatically focus the scope for you, although you can do that manually if you prefer. And there’s even a little heater you can turn on to keep dew from fogging up the lens. There’s also a motor that will automatically focus the scope for you, although you can do that manually if you prefer. And there’s even a little heater you can turn on to keep dew from fogging up the lens.
  
-If all that isn’t enough, there are three filters inside: an opaque one for calibration, a UV / IR Cut filter for the Moon, galaxies and stars, and a dual-band filter to enhance nebulae and reduce light pollution. The computer controls the dark one when you start taking pictures of deep sky objects (aka Skywatching in Seestar lingo). It takes about a minute, and during that time, a bunch of images are created, but only electronic noise is collected and the result is subtracted from your pictures to make them smoother. These images are called “darks”. Happily, you don’t have to worry about any of that because the Seestar takes care of it for you. +If all that isn’t enough, there are three filters inside: an opaque one for calibration; a UV / IR Cut filter for the Moon, galaxies, reflection nebulae, and stars; and a narrowband filter to enhance emission nebulae and reduce light pollution. The computer controls the dark one when you start taking pictures of deep sky objects (aka Skywatching in Seestar lingo). It takes about a minute, and during that time, a bunch of images are created, but only electronic noise is collected and the result is subtracted from your pictures to make them smoother. These images are called “darks, flats, and bias” frames. Happily, you don’t have to worry about any of that because the Seestar takes care of it for you. 
  
-{{ :screenshot_2024-06-18_at_9.40.27 am.png?nolink&200|}}When you pick a target, the Seestar will decide if the narrowband filter will help, generally when you select nebulae, but you can ignore the recommendation if you prefer and just stick with the UV/IR filter which prevents star bloat.+{{ :c_homepage.png?nolink&200|}}When you pick a target, the Seestar will decide if the narrowband filter will help, generally when you select nebulae, but you can ignore the recommendation if you prefer and just stick with the UV/IR filter which prevents star bloat.
  
 {{ :images.jpeg?nolink&50|}} Finally, the Seestar also comes with an orange and silver external solar filter that you insert in the front of the tube, which you must do when shooting the Sun. Don’t get fingerprints on the lens or filter! {{ :images.jpeg?nolink&50|}} Finally, the Seestar also comes with an orange and silver external solar filter that you insert in the front of the tube, which you must do when shooting the Sun. Don’t get fingerprints on the lens or filter!
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 {{ :dewshield.jpg?nolink&100|}}A lens hood/dew shield has been demonstrated to improve the contrast in images. Some have a base with prongs that lets light in if you aren’t careful, so look for one with a solid bayonet-type base. A lens hood is easy to 3D-print, but if you buy one you’ll find them from $15 to $40. {{ :dewshield.jpg?nolink&100|}}A lens hood/dew shield has been demonstrated to improve the contrast in images. Some have a base with prongs that lets light in if you aren’t careful, so look for one with a solid bayonet-type base. A lens hood is easy to 3D-print, but if you buy one you’ll find them from $15 to $40.
  
-{{ :screenshot_2024-06-18_at_9.42.49 am.png?nolink&50|}}Some people find a Bahtinov Mask handy to check the focus. When it’s in front of the lens you’ll see a tiny X over a bright star, you adjust focus until a vertical line equally splits the X. Every time I use mine the auto focus is spot on, so YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary). $12 -$20+{{ :screenshot_2024-06-18_at_9.42.49 am.png?nolink&50|}}Some people find a Bahtinov Mask handy to check the focus. When it’s in front of the lens you’ll see a tiny X over a bright star, you adjust focus until a vertical line equally splits the X. Every time I use mine the auto focus is spot on, but YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary). $12 -$20
  
 {{ :screenshot_2024-06-14_at_10.38.25 am.png?nolink&200 |}} {{ :screenshot_2024-06-14_at_10.38.25 am.png?nolink&200 |}}
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- --- //[[admin@Seestar.online|Tom Harnish]] 2024/06/23 15:44// 
  
telescope_system.1719249113.txt.gz · Last modified: 2024/06/24 10:11 by tailspin

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